Human traffic

“Maybe we’ll butt up in the human traffic.”

That was said to me as I walked out of Larice's Dress Shop on Warren Street in Monrovia. It means we may meet in the hustle and bustle of Monrovian life. It is the place for Liberian haute couture and a little extra.

After dropping off my material for a new skirt, all the ladies of the shop and customers chatted about Liberian colloquialism. It is one of the best places to have quality designer clothes made for a fraction of the cost you’d pay in the States. You can choose material from her selection or peruse the various shops on Waterside. Rarely is fabric sold my yard or meter. Instead it is sold by the lappa, which is approximately 2.2 yards. A complete women’s lappa suit has three pieces—skirt, shirt, and head wrap. Most lappas are sold in threes, but with a bit of luck or charismatic negotiating, you can get the buyer to split it up for your needs. I was lucky or charismatic enough to buy only one lappa for a skirt. The print was absolutely exquisite—navy blue with women’s silhouettes. The title of the print is ‘jealous woman,’ because the women stretch their long necks attempting to outshine the other while putting their hands on their hips. (unfortunately, i don't have a photo posted of the beautiful skirt, but I do have 1 of Larice's originals.) I only paid 140 LD or 2USD and it cost 14USD to have it made into a long A-line skirt. The average price for a lappa is between 120 and 150 LD, but there are more exclusive brands. However, you can buy the haute couture of lappas imported from Togo from Larice for around 40USD for three lappas. She won’t sell you just one lappa, so be prepared to make use of all three lappas. I suggest a head wrap or belt. Feel free to bring in a picture from a magazine and she can custom fit it to your measurements and the texture of the material. It isn’t simply a place to get a great fit, but a place to comfortably talk with Liberian women about their experiences during the crisis and their dreams for the future. Feel free to read the latest edition of Liberia Travel and Life magazine. While there I met the advertising executive for the magazine. She designs the layout of the ads and assists with the overall look of the magazine. This is a place to catch up on what’s new and happening in Liberia.
If you want a piece of art on your wall and not on your body go to Art for the Heart on Camp Johnson Road. A Liberian political cartoonist and artist runs this collective and takes commission work. If you have a picture or an idea, they can make it come to life on the canvas. Artworks range in price from $200 to $600. They also have postcards, but they are of poor quality. There are a few other art shops in Mamba Point that are a little cheaper. You never know what you’ll find in the human traffic of Monrovia. Take a look and venture throughout the city

Ganta City

Red dust powders eyelids like kabuki theatre. Diesel fumes cling to their clothes. Through the night into the early morning they journey across dry riverbeds and rugged roads to be here.  These are the teachers who will guide Liberian children to the future.  Teachers and principals hitched rides in overcrowded cargo trucks, beat-up yellow taxis, and some walked on foot to make it to this ten- day workshop in Ganta City, Nimba County. My job was easy—monitor, evaluate, present new ideas, and give feedback. There is an overwhelming male majority, but I try to look fierce. I’m confident, but I don’t have wrinkles, gray hairs, or other elderly distinguishing marks. In a society that values maturity, I look like most of these teachers’ students. Being professional, arriving on time and cheerfully giving feedback helped make my stay in Ganta pleasurable. I stayed at the Hotel Alvino named after the hotel owner’s son. It is a newly constructed hotel with a complete bar and restaurant. The food is quite good, but slightly unimaginative. Jollof rice, fried chicken, fish, spaghetti, are all excellent dishes, but get boring after a few days. I suggest venturing out into the city to grab a bit of variety. G.B. is made from cassava flour and tastes a lot like fufu, but slightly harder. The city never sleeps and a nightclub adjacent to the hotel proves this at 5 a.m.. You can safely venture over the Guinean border to buy fresh produce, eggs, or a used car. Guinean taxes are remarkably low, thus Guinean investors buy cars that do not pass yearly inspections in Western Europe and export for sale in Guinea. They sell these less than stellar Nissans and Toyotas to eager West Africans. I recognize German bumper stickers on Liberian roads from my Berlin days.

“Ich bremse für Tiere“

or

‘I brake for animals.’

Guinea Road runs parallel to the Hotel Alvino and is a short twenty-minute walk to the border.  If you want to experience true adventure, charter a flat-bottomed raft across the Saint John River.  I recommend doing this during the dry season (October- April) when the river is at its lowest.

For a complete change of a pace make a side trip to the Methodist Compound, where you can buy crafts from people living and recovering from leprosy and tuberculosis. Some of the structures date back to the forties and sustained only superficial damage during the crisis. It is a worthwhile trip. A healthy person has little risk becoming infected by a brief visit, but it is best to check-in with the on-site staff and personnel.

Back on the main highway you can hitch a ride through Côte d'Ivoire into Burkina Faso. Most Monrovian traders worth their salt will buy at the port and drive their goods through Côte d'Ivoire into Burkina Faso for the final delivery. If you are strong and willing to ride on an overcrowded van through dry riverbeds and rugged terrains like the teachers and principals of Nimba County you can experience the true beauty of West Africa.