Tumbleweed in a Capricious Dust Storm

The government of Liberia in partnership with UNMIL welcomed dozens of traditional dancers and acrobats from West Africa for a day of unity and peace. At first I thought this would be some clichéd tourist trap complete with women in coconut bras and grass skirts, gyrating for camera- clicking Westerners. I was right, but only partly right. Women in simply- sewn blue skirts and t-shirts keep time with the talking drums. My well-meaning white friend watches along and asks; “why aren’t they wearing traditional costumes?” She expected the women in grass skirts and coconut bras to entice camera-clicking tourists with prurient cultural fantasies. “Just wait!” I exclaim. A motley crew of tribal country devils and masked dancers crowd the stage. Three dancers dressed like electric pastel Mr. Snuffleupaguses (if there are any multiple Sesame Street Big Bird pals hanging around!) pirouette and leap through the air, creating a trail of bright colors like a 1960s acid trip. They jump into the air with high capoeira style sweeping kicks, but before they can finish a masked male dancer twirling like a dervish enters. He appears weightless. His grass skirt sweeps the floor then takes off into flight. The several layers of his voluminous raffia skirt looks like tumbleweed caught in a capricious dust storm. Then the most spectacular dancer takes the stage wearing a full- body raffia suit and a three-foot tall ebony mask. The dancer doesn’t look human, but rather like a small air vortex carrying red dust and debris through the air—a dust devil. The huge ebony mask falls off and he loses his humanness. The spirit of the dry harmattan whirlwind becomes him. It blows off stage into the audience scattering the crowd like rice at Karma’s wedding. Cameras click for the fleeting moment of brilliant spirit possession. It isn’t frightening like it may seem, but beautifully captivating and elegant. This is Africa.

I haven't forgotten . . .

These few weeks have been amazingly beautiful and difficult.
First Jubilation of the Month
Congratulations to the New Orleans Saints for winning the Super Bowl. The enthusiasm is contagious even here in West Africa. Around 11:00 in the night, we crept over to a friend’s house with a DSTV satellite and watched the game. Unfortunately, we missed all the American commercials. ESPN International only has the rights to show the game and halftime show, but not the commercials. Oh well, you can’t have everything, but we were most pleased with the outcome. Our Liberian friend said to his girlfriend; “New Orleans lost everything when the storm came. They need to win tonight.” A young woman accustomed only to soccer said, “Okay, so we root for the losing team.” She cheered louder than all of us. The underdog won for all of us.
Second Jubilation of the month. . .
My partner and I orchestrated our biggest feat in country. We distributed 40 tons of books to the entire country. Liberia is a country without paved roads, a working postal system, or a total transparent and functioning government. This was a huge accomplishment. Sadly, many of the donated books were sold for profit and never made it to the students who needed it most. Oh well, we tried our best.

Third Jubilation of the month. . .
Also, congratulations to President Ellen Johnson Sirleaf and the Unity Party. Madam President has chosen to seek re-election in 2011. YAY!!! She gave a speech in Gbarnga (Bhang-A) and visited our church the next morning. I sat star struck a few pews back. She looks strong and has a steely visage. I understand why people call her the “Iron Lady.” I didn’t have the chance to shake her hand or say anything besides “good morning,” but it certainly made my week just to see her.
Fourth Jubilation of the month
Classes started this Monday and I am teaching five classes. At first I was overjoyed with the prospect of having a full workload, but my joy soon turned to sorrow. All the classes are consecutively scheduled every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and not all in the same room. To get to each classroom I have to hike up a large hill in the midday sun with heavy history and sociology book on my backs. I will be fit like a marine at the end of the semester, or I will make a deal with a pen-pen driver to taxi me from class to class. I am not sure what option I will take, but if I look like a petite swimsuit model, you’ll know I jogged up several hills to class several days a week.
Yes, I still enjoy Liberia and thank God everyday that I’m here. I have a chance to work, research, and do something meaningful. I have decided to renew my contract for another year and return to Cuttington University. Not only will I have a chance to cultivate my academic interests, I’ll get a chance to collect some great art. West Africa has enchanting masks, statues, and paintings.