Clouds Loom Overhead

Gray clouds loom in the distance. The rainy season is almost here. It rains without notice and gives a welcomed reprieve from the intense heat. The earth is parched and red dust covers green leaves. Such an afternoon storm blew over Gbarnga during a meeting with the Elder Paramount Chief Borwor, an elderly and wise man. He gave me flirtatious glances as we discussed traditional moot courts. Most of the conflict he resolves deals with land tenure and family disputes. An unfaithful spouse. Yet, he handles issues of paramount importance. Land. Wars are fought over land. As the wind sweeps over the front porch and knocks over the small card table, I grab my notebook and we duck inside the Chief’s house. His living room looks like a small courtroom. Benches on each side of the room with his chair juxtaposed between the two parties. Here is where he rules. I am in his realm of authority. The war ended in 2003 and tribal lands were re-drawn and the Mandingo may have received an unfair shake. I can’t be for sure, but many of the land tenure disputes involve Mandingo tribal land. Two weeks ago in the northwestern most corner of Liberia, a young woman was kidnapped and brutalized. She was found outside a mosque with body parts missing. Mandingos are mostly Muslims and were blamed for her murder. In my opinion, this is the work of the Heartmen. Heartmen are witchdoctors who use body parts for powerful sorcery. Hmm, sorcery and Islam don’t fit together. There is a strong historic correlation between Heartmen killings and political aspirations. A mutilated body is dumped near a rival and he is never able to recover. His career is over. I can’t be sure this is what happened in Voinjama, Lofa County, but this event tore apart the community. Mosques and Christian churches were burned alike and people are dead. Rumors spread throughout this transnational community. Many fled over the border to Guinea and others hid in the thick jungle bush. Peace Corps pulled out after a harrowing 19 hours hunkered down in their small unsecure house. Thankfully, UN has the largest contingent in the world in a country the size of Tennessee. We are safe.